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網站首頁 > 全景神木 > 美食佳肴

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淮寧河川,春秋為狄地,是晉公子重耳避難的地方,晉公子的隨從介子推割股奉君的故事就發生于此,當地百姓現在還稱淮寧河川為重耳川。傳說結束十九年逃亡生涯的重耳成為晉文公后獎賞隨臣,可介子推卻隱居綿山,不愿食君祿。晉文公賞介子推心切,于是下令放火燒山,逼其出山。大火綿延數里,三日才熄。后有人在一棵枯柳下發現了介子推母子被烈火燒焦的尸骨,時在三月五日。晉文公聞訊后,悲痛萬分,遂下令每年的三月五日為火禁日,是日,舉國禁止煙火,僅食寒食,“寒食節”從此形成。據說“寒食節”初興時,因擔心有人燃薪燒炊,各地官員還要深入里閭,逐一檢查各家鍋灶,看是否有生火做飯者,倘有違令者,便重重處罰。這樣一來,誰家也不敢在“寒食節”生火做熟食了;一些想做熱食的人家也只能偷偷在“投灶口”或院子里用石塊支砌臨時灶堂,燃火做飯。時至現在,在一些地方,人們做攤圜兒時,仍臨時支砌火灶攤制,多不用家里的鍋灶。

攤圜兒由此而來。黃米攤圜兒,簡稱攤圜兒,是一種風味獨特的烙制食品,又名黃煎,也有人稱其為攤饃饃,是神木數得上的民間美味之一。

走進神木城的鐘樓洞巷,讓目光穿過人群,一輛一輛陳舊的羊車子隨之映入眼簾,車子靜靜地停在路邊,上面載著正在燒著的爐子,爐子上架一口鍋子,鍋子跟前往往就站著一位戴著護袖口罩的大媽。這就是神木的攤圜兒攤點。

攤圜兒的原料一般為小米面、玉米面、糜米面、高粱面、蕎面等,也可用小米面、玉米面摻以少許白面的混合面粉。神木攤圜兒則以黃米攤圜兒為主。攤圜兒的做法比較細致。首先取面粉適量,調為糊狀,經發酵后,用勺子舀取,均勻地傾入鏊子中烙蒸。烙制攤圜兒的鏊子俗稱“黃兒鏊”或“鏊兒”,為生鐵所鑄,分鏊身與蓋子兩部分。鏊子底部鑄有三只矮足,鏊身呈圓形,中間凸起,周邊隆為楞圈兒狀,鏊面光滑,油亮可鑒。蓋子為覆碗狀,蓋頂有環或鈕,便于揭扣。其次,烙制時將鏊子置灶爐上,待鏊底烤熱后,先涂以食油,再傾入面糊兒,加蓋烙蒸。烙蒸約兩至三分鐘后,只聽鏊內水汽“滋滋”作響,表示攤圜兒已熟。這時攤制者取下蓋子,用小鐵鏟將攤黃兒鏟出,置于箅上降溫,待稍涼后折疊成半圓形,即成。出鏊兒攤圜兒色澤焦黃,香甜可口,十分惹人喜愛。攤圜兒有發酵與不發酵兩種。發酵的松軟,不發酵的筋道。發酵與否,完全依食者的喜好而定,并可根據不同食者的不同口味兒,酌加咸鹽或白糖,以及其他佐料。

攤制攤圜兒要嚴格控制火量?;鹆Σ粔?,費時;火力太猛,攤圜兒易焦糊。有經驗的師傅攤制的攤圜兒,每一張都焦而不糊,色香俱佳,此亦無他,惟手熟爾。

烙制攤圜兒的鏊子,并不是每家每戶都有的。在一個村莊里,鏊子這種炊具頂多也就有幾個,所以“寒食節”前,人們相互傳遞,轉流使用。依民俗,借用鏊子時,需放入筐內,并用圍裙苫嚴,不要叫別人看見,尤其不要叫狗看見,倘不慎被狗看見,攤制的攤圜兒則易碎且乏味。此為鄉里荒唐可笑之陋俗,其實是沒有一點兒道理的。

在陜北一些地方,也有在四月八日吃攤圜兒的習俗,有俗語云:“四月八,不吃攤圜兒不得發,吃了攤圜兒快倒塌”(一說“四月八,不吃豆腐不得發,吃了豆腐快倒塌”)。農歷四月八日相傳為佛祖釋迦牟尼誕生日,是日吃攤圜兒是否與紀念佛祖誕生有關,尚不得而知。為什么叫攤圜兒,有的地方也直接就叫圜兒,應該是從它的顏色叫起的吧,因為不論是米面還是玉米面,可都是黃色的,又因為是用鏊子攤的,于是就叫成攤圜兒了。

過去農村農活不忙時,各家的婆姨們那是比著本事做茶飯的,誰的茶飯做的好,那出來也是很光彩的,老漢臉上也有光,要是茶飯不行,不但自己臉沒光,老漢也抬不起頭來。攤圜兒也就成了婆姨們比試的一項內容了。婆姨們還不時地在一塊交流做茶飯的經驗。在農村,婆姨們一做攤圜兒就要攤一大笸籮子,要能吃上幾天的。

現在市場上天天有賣攤圜兒,想吃的時候就去買上些,也就不再自己攤了。


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